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She is the liquid princess – Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

[Matcha green tea marble brioches]

brioche matcha loaf

With no rational reason except that those brioches looked terribly good, I decided to venture into the realm of feuilletage.

Once again. Although, this time, my kitchen did not come with a rolling pin.

I could have bought one on my recent visit to Pages. I almost did in fact. But eventually got out from the shop carrying many cercles [rings], a couple of knives, a sugar thermometer, and some ramekins.

brioche rising

Quite providentially, my kitchen did come with too many empty wine bottles to admit it; let’s be honest, I had five of them sitting on the counter.

In my defence, I must tell you they have been there for weeks, not just since the last waste removal day, which was – let me think – this morning.

brioche matcha

Armed with the one bottle that seemed fit for the occasion – read perfectly cylindrical, label removed – I went straight for the recipe. And then realised the folding instructions were in Japanese.

Now, why my kitchen did not come with full wine bottles? At that point, I could have used a glass.

Instead, I started doodling, only to realise my panic attack was pointless. A simple tour double.
Just like for puff pastry.

brioche-tour-double

I made the dough. Left it to rise. Made the matcha filling. Chilled it. Then, I started rolling and folding, and rolling and folding.

Somehow, my dreamlike vision of the use of wine bottles as rolling pins vanished when the filling started leaking and the dough stuck to the bottle.

brioche log

My counter ended up green, so did my fingers.

But that’s okay.

First, because I like green. And second, because I see no problem whatsoever in licking green fingers when they taste like matcha.

brioche matcha bite

One lesson I have learnt from this experience: get yourself a decent rolling pin girl.

If unlike me – and probably not unlike every person around the world – you own a rolling pin, then I urge you to make these brioches. With green tea, or if you’re feeling a little more subversive, with cocoa powder.

brioche loaf tin

Brioches marbrées au thé matcha
Adapted from Les carnets d’une connasse parisienne.

Don’t be scared with all the rolling pin action here. These brioches are very easy to make, and a teart to eat.

Soft and fragrant.

When it comes to yeasted dough’s, my favourite kneading technique – which I learnt at school – is quite close from this one. I wish I could make a video to show you, but for now, the explanations of Richard Bertinet will have to do.
I don’t do it the exact same way, but the throwing and folding are similar. Trust me, this kneading technique is a keeper.

If you’re going to use cocoa powder instead of matcha, go for 20g of powder. And then proceed as follow.

Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

makes 12 small brioches, or 6 small and a loaf bread.

for the brioche dough
300g strong flour
60g cater sugar
one tsp dehydrated yeast
125g whole milk
one egg
50g butter, diced and at room temperature

In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except for the butter and mix until it forms a rough dough.
On an unfloured surface, start kneading the dough incorporating the butter as you do so until it forms a smooth ball; around 8 minutes.
Place the dough back into the bowl – covered with a cloth – and leave in a warm place for 2 hours or until double in size.

for the matcha filling
80g milk
one egg white
50g caster sugar
20g flour
20g matcha green tea
10g butter

Bring the milk to the boil. While it’s heating, mix the white and sugar in a bowl until combined. Mix in the flour and matcha green tea, and beat until homogeneous.
When the milk is boiling, pour it over the matcha mixture, whisking as you do so. Transfer back into the pan, and cook on medium heat until thick. Mix in the butter.
Spread it on a baking tray lined with cling film, around 20×15cm. Chill.

for the shaping

Remove any air from the brioche dough by gently patting it down, then roll it into a 30×20cm rectangle. Place the matcha filling in the middle, then fold the dough over it, sealing the extremities together. Roll into a longer rectangle, then make a tour double. Repeat the folding one more time, then roll the dough back into a 30×20cm.
Roll the dough onto itself to form a log. Trim the ends, then using a sharp knife, slice into 3cm-thick segments.
Butter 12 5.5cm-wide rings, and place the slices into them, cut side up. Or if you’re making a loaf, arrange six slices into a loaf tin, and the remaining slices into rings.
Cover loosely with cling film, and allow to rise for 30 to 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180°C, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes.

The notebooks – Treacle tart et oranges sanguines à la grenadine

[Treacle tart and grenadine-marinated blood oranges]

treacle tart

It would probably be an understatement to say that I am messy.

For years, my absolutely organised mum fought with me, not understanding why I had to keep pretty much all of my belongings on my desk, or at worst, around my bed.

For years, I did not understand how – despite being raised by someone so tidy – I would always end up with so much stuff lying on the floor. And then, it struck me. I simply like to have my most cherished possessions close to me. I like to be able to see them at any given time. I like to nest in my own comforting world.

This eureka-moment had no effect on my paradoxical messiness. In fact, as I’m writing this, I’m surrounded by two cameras, a photo album, a bowl of edamame beans, and a neat pile of notebooks.

Yes, neat.

As messy as I can be, I have this strange thing with notebooks.
It started at school, where I would always have the prettiest ones; colour-coded, written using the exact same pen, and no ratures. I’ve even been spotted copying out one of my biology class notebooks because it didn’t feel prefect enough.
Then came pâtisserie kitchens and moleskines stained with chocolate. And yet, when you open them, overlooking the smears, you’ll notice only that one felt tip pen touched the pages (ask the guys at the hotel and they will tell you how angry I get if my pen gets stolen).

Now turn the pages, and see that drawing of a square tart filled with a liquorish-like treacle flan, topped with grenadine-marinated oranges and a square of white chocolate.

It’s the starting point of an endless excitement. Making pastries all day is a favourite. Creating pastries all day is the most favourite.

treacle tart large copie

Right now, I’m developing some very fine French pâtisseries for the book I’m working on. But I’m also playing around in the kitchen just for foodbeam. And it feels so nice.
I can’t promise daily recipes here, although I will make my best to come up with new exciting things if I’m not spending my days off exploring London for the best places to eat, or have a bubble tea, or some macarons.

london favourites

Yes, I’m totally keeping tracks of my London favourites there. It’s – almost – all film pretty (I love London, and I love my Pentax ME Super even more).

treacle tart close

Treacle tart et oranges sanguines à la grenadine

I’m calling this treacle tart although it’s really not a genuine treacle tart, but more of a treacle syrup flan encased in a tart shell.

I don’t know about you, but to me treacle has more complex – and yet quite close – flavour than liquorish. And I think it pairs well with acidic fruits like citrus or green apples. Here, I went for blood oranges and decided to enhance their natural sweetness by marinating them overnight in a light grenadine syrup.

And then I topped the whole thing with a square of white chocolate to bring out the creaminess from the flan, and to give the tart a nice shiny finish. You can definitely skip this if you’re not confident about tempering chocolate, although it only takes a few minutes.

Just so you know, I used small square rings (6,5cm-wide) which are quite high (3cm) so I could get more filling than crust. If you’re going to use regular tart rings, you’ll have enough flan to fill four tarts shells. Just adjust the quantity of pâte sucrée (around 300g), marinated oranges, and white chocolate squares (or in this case, circles).

Treacle tart et oranges sanguines à la grenadine

makes two tarts (see note above)

for the tart shell
150g pâte sucrée (see recipe here)

Preheat the oven to 170°C.
Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface, and line two tart square rings. Chill for 30 minutes.
Bake blind using rice or beans for 15 minutes or until just slightly coloured. Set aside.

for the treacle flan
80g double cream
40g treacle syrup
40g golden syrup
one egg

Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C.
Combine all the ingredients into a bowl, mixing until smooth. Divide into the prepared tart shells and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling is set.
The flan will rise quite a lot during baking, but will fall as the tart cools.
When the tarts are baked, transfer to a wire rack, and allow to cool at room temperature. The tart will nicely keep in an airtight container in the fridge overnight.

for the marinated oranges
segments from two blood oranges
100g blood orange juice
50g grenadine

Chop the orange segments into 1cm dices, and place into a bowl along with the juice and grenadine. Transfer to a freezing bag, and chill overnight.

for the montage
white chocolate squares, the size of your tart

Place the tart on a plate. Drain the orange segments, gently patting them down. Arrange them on top of the tart, then place a square of white chocolate.

Don’t be shy little bunny

ask me anything

Some things should be taken for granted.

A delicious afternoon tea is served with freshly baked scones. A boyfriend comes with amazing pastry skills, a lovely smile, and a happy heart. This pastry blog should be updated more often, yet I spent lots of time documenting my life in my journal. A night out genuinely can’t be called one unless spicy bloody mary is involved.

And: I am not good with emails.

So not good in fact, that I started using formspring to answer all your questions. I’ve even placed a little box on the side bar right here, so please my favourite little bunnies, don’t be shy and ask me.

About whatever you like. Pastry or not. I’ll make y best to answer and my email inbox will be happy not to have so many read – yet unanswered – emails.

I find this – not so – new app (why am I always way behind?) quite useful to implement a sort of FAQ. I mean, you might find the one thing you’re looking for by reading through the answers.

However, I want you to promise me you’ll still be comfortable sending me emails if you feel like it. I love them. Each and everyone one of them holds a special place in my heart.

PS. I might end up getting tired of it, but really want to give it a try. Come what may!

Be kind, rewind – Cake weekend au citron et confit de clémentines à la vanille

lemon cake with clementine confit spoon

As I was diligently peeling a stampede of organic lemons to turn them into neat candied squares – a pretty lengthy task if you consider all the steps involved – the pungent scent brought down memories of a now long-gone day.

Rewind.

As Guillaume wakes up – or more accurately, as I push the snooze button of our alarm clock every two minutes, giving him a repeat-hug to gently get him to emerge from his dreamless sleep – I suddenly realise that today is my much-longed-for day-off.

After more minutes that I will dare to divulge, Guillaume slowly walks to the bathroom, and I can’t resist to fall back asleep with the soothing sound of falling waters tickling my ears.

It’s now almost eleven aye-emm, and after a quick bath – my very own luxury – I hop onto the bus towards High Street Kensington. Read: towards Whole Foods.

On my way back, white flakes begin to fill the skies. By the time I reach the door to our flat, the streets, trees, and sadly for my tendency not to resist to any slippery surface, the sidewalks are coated with thick snow.

snow time

It’s damn cold outside, and the heat I find at home feels unbearable.

Until I look through the window only to mentally record the image I see. A white cocoon surrounded my fog clouds.

It’s pretty much one of the most comforting sensation ever. As if I was contemplating my own daily world from above; except it’s now all-quiet, almost like a nature morte.

With such an astounding cosiness, a couple of things were bound to happen. A feel-happy movie, a trip to my very favourite blogs, a nap – taken from the warmth of my thick couette.

eggs

The last thing involved flour, baking powder, eggs, sugar, a good dose of lemon, butter, and cream. Also known as cake weekend, this loaf will keep – in the fridge, well-wrapped in cling film – for days.

Oh, and did I mention how easy it is to put together, how pretty it is to look at, and how down-to-the-last-crumb delicious it is to eat?

lemon cake sliced

It is also a damn good reason to use my absolute pâtisserie tour-de-main [process] crush. The one trick you won’t be able to live without.
If you want a life lived in the shadows of neatly cracked cakes, please avoid eye contact with the following lines.

loaf cake tip

The secret is to pipe a line of butter on the top of your unbaked loaf. Simply cream a couple of tablespoons of butter, and using a piping bag – or as I do, a paper cornet (another playground love, which I should definitely make you discover laterish) – pipe a thin line across the length of the cake.

Bake and allow your eyes to sparkle.

But more than this, this promenade into the past allowed me to discover what pushes me to make a recipe in particular.
I think it says a lot about the pastry chef – not to mention the person – you are. The way you combine coincidences, accidents, facts into a delicious pâtisserie.

lemon

And I strongly hope my recipes come across just how people see me. Refreshing, sophisticated yet with an edge, and fun.
This means a lot to me since I have just realised that I am now ready to write a pastry book. It’s always been a dream, a long-term goal, and possibly the one thing – except for my passion – that got me into those not-so-hot pieds-de-poules pants.

Until today, I had never felt the need to write a cookbook. I kept telling myself I had to wait until I would master an actual knowledge on French pâtisserie, and also, until I had a good unexplored book material.

So when the idea came to me on my way to work, I was thrilled.

A book I would have loved to read a couple of years earlier, when I hadn’t yet entered a professional pastry kitchen. And actually, a book I would still love to read now.

It’s still the very beginning of the process, and even though I keep my fingers crossed to the point my joints hurt, the book will possibly never be printed. But I like to challenge myself.

So well, let’s forget about this all, and please go make a cup of your favourite tea – although I couldn’t recommend anything more than a delicate cup of green tea – to sip through the savouring of a thick slice of weekend lemon cake topped with a large spoonful of clementine confit and a dollop of crème fraiche.

lemon cake with clementine confit

Cake weekend au citron et confit de clémentines à la vanille
I feel like I’ve already talked way too much today, so I will now simply urge you to make this. Weekend or not.

Just make sure you fold the flour very delicately into the batter, not to loose any of the air (incorporated in the eggs right at the beginning by much whipping) that gives the loaf cake such a light texture.
Same goes for the fats (both cream and butter; that’s actually the difference between a cake and a weekend cake).

What I usually do is to incorporate vigorously a small amount of batter (around one cup) into the melted – yet not hot – fats, then pour this mixture back into the batter, folding very gently.

As for the confit, you simply need to briefly blanch the whole clémentines a couple of times, before cooling them in ice-cold water. This allows to 1) get rid of the skin’s bitterness, and 2) keep the bright orange colour.
Then proceed as detailed below!

You can certainly make it in advance as it will keep for 5 days in the frigde.

Cake weekend au citron et confit de clémentines à la vanille

makes one loaf cake

for the lemon weekend cake
4 eggs
250g caster sugar
zest from 2 fat organic lemons
200g plain flour
one tsp baking powder
150g double cream
50g butter, melted

softened butter, extra for piping

Preheat the oven to 150°C (EDIT: as a sweet reader and friend pointed to me, this might be a little low for non-fan assisted ovens. Mine tends to be one of the most efficient ovens I’ve ever had, hence the low temp; in case yours is on the slow side, I suggest you turn the thermostat up to 170°C for better results). Butter and flour a loaf tin.
Place the eggs and sugar in a bowl, and whip until thick and doubled in size. In an another bowl, mix the flour, lemon zest and baking powder. Fold the dry ingredients into the egg mixture. Then pour a little of this onto the cream and melted butter, mix well, and transfer back to the main batter mix. Fold in gently.
Pour into the prepared tin, pipe a line of butter across the cake; and bake for 45 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the cake comes out clean.

for the clémentines confit
350g clémentines, around 3 to 4
200g sugar
half a vanilla pod
100g water
20g cornflour diluted in 40g cold water

bring a large pan of water to the boil. Plunge the clémentines in it and simmer for 3 minutes. Sieve, placing the fruits in an ice-cold water bath as you do so. Repeat one more time. Then chill the clémentines until cold enough to handle.
Slice very finely, and place in a pan along with the sugar, vanilla pod and seeds, and water. Simmer for 30 minutes or until reduced and almost candied. Then vigourously fold in the cornflour mixture. Allow to boil for a couple of minutes, and transfer to a bowl.
Chill.

to serve
a generous dollop of crème fraiche for each serving

Place a slice of cake cut in half lenghtwise in a plate. Top with both a spoonful of confit and a dollop of crème fraiche.

Dreams, not as daft as they seem – Banana cream pie

banana cream pie

To me, the last hours of a year are always filled with expectations, excitement, and dreams.

As a matter of fact, I have been dreaming a lot lately. Possibly because my 9am/11pm day life is quite very busy with mise en place, desserts à l’assiette, afternoon teas, foams, and many more exciting things.

Thus, at night I dream that:
1. I spend a weekly day off with my boyfriend.
2. my hair is not that messy.
3. I become a better pâtissière.
4. I see more daylight.
5. I take the time to capture moments through photographs.
6. our Christmas tree lasts forever.
7. I make beautiful pastries at home.
8. Polaroid film hits the shops again.
9. I have leopard leggings in every possible colour.
10. I take the time to write in my new Moleskine diary.

Oh, and while I’m at it, I should admit that I dream of a puppy dog quite often too. I can’t tell you how happy I would be if only one of those dreams would come true during 2010.

Bring it on!

banana cream pie

As for today, I’m afraid it’s nothing near dreamy. But you have to remember that we basically have one wisk, a couple of baking sheets, and that-is-pretty-much-it in our tiny London kitchen.

I did my best to recreate the lovely banana cream pie I had in mind, and trust me, you wouldn’t have wanted to see the kitchen after two of those small tarts were made.

Pulling isomalt without a Silpat is hard. Smoothing whipped cream without a spatula is harder. Piping without a bag is the hardest.

At least, we had a good laugh and a satisfied tummy. Despite the evident lack of sophistication, this tart – or pie – is delicious.

The perfect end to our marathon Christmas lunch.

banana cream pie

Banana cream pie with a chocolate mousse quenelle
My secret to this flavourful banana cream pie is to roast the banana in its own skin before mashing it very slightly, and spreading it at the bottom of a crisp tart shell.

Then comes the confiture de lait. You can either make your own by boiling some milk and sugar together to a thick consistency and golden colour, or boil an unopened can of sweetened condensed milk for hours, or even get the ready-made kind.
I must admit I went for a jar of dulce de leche found at Whole Foods since I didn’t really have the required motivation/energy to make it at home. Sometimes, the easy path feels the best.

Since confiture de lait is quite sweet, I prefer to use plain whipped cream to top my pie instead of chantilly.

Banana cream pie with a chocolate mousse quenelle

makes four 10cm tarts
for the tart shell
250g flour
pinch of sea salt
125g unsalted butter, chilled and diced
25g caster sugar
1 egg yolk
40ml ice-cold water

Sift the flour, salt and sugar into a large bowl. Using your fingertips, rub the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse oatmeal. Mix the egg yolk and water together and pour over the flour mixture. Gently knead until it all comes together. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180°C and line four 10cm tart tins. Roll the pastry and drape it over the prepared tin. Press it into the edges and sides of the tin and trim the excess pastry away from the rim. Prick the base with a fork and chill for another 20 minutes.
Bake the pastry blind for 25 minutes, or until golden brown.

for the filling
3 bananas
250g confiture de lait or dulce de leche
200g double cream, whipped

Place the bananas – unpeeled – on a baking tray and roast for 15-20 minutes or until black and soft. Allow to cool before removing the flesh from the skin and mashing it slightly with a fork.
Spread into the baked tart shells. Top with confiture de lait and whipped cream. Devour.

And before I forget about it: HAPPY NEW YEAR. x