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Sooo craquant! - Le gâteau craque de ma grand-mère

I can’t even remember the countless hours I spent on the kitchen counter at my grandparents house. I loved to listen to my grandmother while she was cooking.
She always explained me everything in detail: why she should add this or mix that way…
But the part I prefered was the one about le gâteau craque.
This cake was of my biggest food fantasy. I litteraly dreamt about it several times.
Maybe because I had never seen my grandma making it and thus, I didn’t know how it looks nor how it tastes.
So my favourite game was to try and imagine how the gâteau craque could be, and with a name as the only hint, all I could say is that it sounded yummy.

Craque is the adjective for craquer.
Craquer can mean both to crumble or to fall in love with something/someone.
My grandmother was teasing me: she would say how good it was, but woudn’t give me a clue about its taste, texture or ingredients.

I recently spent a week at my grandparents’. And when my grandmother asked me if I wanted to make the gâteau craque, the only thing i could answer was YES.
It’s actually a chocolate cake covered with a chocolate-almond meringue icing.

Though, it’s not your usual chocolate cake. I was pretty astonished because it contains:
- no butter
- just 50g of flour and 50g of potato starch
The cake itself was very moist and not very sweet, so the meringue icing is a good option.

Le gâteau craque de ma grand-mère
This is a nice little cake that has a great texture.
Note that it’s best served in small portions (hence the 10-12 servings) because of the frosting is somewhat… rich.
Next time, I think I’ll go for a butterless frosting, hence an all meringue, chocolate and almond one.

Le gâteau craque de ma grand-mère

serves 10-12

for the icing
125g icing sugar
2 egg whites
20g dark chocolate
20g butter
few drops of almond essence
150g butter, at room temperature

Put the egg whites and icing sugar in a metal bowl.
Place the bowl in a large pan filled with cold water and turn on the heat. Start whisking the egg whites and icing sugar and stop when the water starts boiling.
Melt the chocolate and the butter in a pan and mix into the meringue. Add the almond essence and the creamed butter.
Keep in thye fridge for at least an hour before icing the cake.

for the cake
4 eggs, separated
2 tbsp hot water from a recently boiled kettle
130g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
50g flour
50g potato starch
30g cocoa powder
1 tsp baking powder

Preheat the oven to 180°C.
Line a 25cm springform tin with parchemnt paper.
Whisk the egg yolks and the water. While whsking, add the sugar and vanilla extract and continue whisking until light and frothy.
Mix in the flour, potato starch, cocoa powder and baking powder.
Whisk the egg whites until firm and fold them into the previous mix.
Pour this mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean.
Once cold, slice the cake in two layers. Put on layer on a plate, spread with the icing, sit the other cake on top and ice the top and sides of the cake with the remaining icing.

My secret love affair with Mr Cheese

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Manslois mousse with fraises au vinaigre balasmique.

I have a great love affair with cheese. I love to eat it and even more, to make it. It might be linked to the fact that I’m French and thus, brought up on Camembert and Roquefort…
Indeed, more than 400 different cheeses are produced in France, 42 of these having a quality label called AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) and lots being made under the AB (Agriculture Biologique) label.
This doesn’t mean that all French cheese are necessarily good — both in taste and quality.
But when you buy your cheese, try to know where it comes from: a farm or an industry.
And if you ever come to France, I deeply advise you to visit local farmers, to talk with them and eventually to buy their produce. This way, you can’t be wrong.

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I have no idea on how people from other countries eat their cheese, but as a French, I can’t imagine a weekend lunch without a well-furnished cheese platter.
Usually, I like to keep it simple with 3 or 4 different cheeses. I try to serve big portions so the people don’t get afraid to help themselves and I like to combine strong and mild flavours:
- a blue cheese (like Roquefort or Bleu d’Auvergne)
- a fresh goat cheese (now I’ve worked on a farm, making goat cheese, I can’t live without this cheese. It is so versatile and delicious)
- a Corsican sheep’s milk hard cheese served either with some fig jam or chestnut honey.
- a piece of Brie de Meaux: a soft mild-in-taste cheese

But a full cheese lunch could be a good idea as well if the flavours are well combined. Here, I tried to put together for this 4-course lunch. No main course! Just 4 small dishes, high in taste yet subtle.

Tarte fine aux asperges et au chèvre frais
[Asparagus and fresh goat cheese tart]

I made this for my birthday a month ago and everyone loved it. Three simple flavours: green asparagus, fresh goat cheese and fine puff pastry.
This is far better if you make your own puff pastry — I know it’s time-consuming, but the difference is real: homemade puff pastry is so delicious.
The goat cheese should be 2-3 days old, as I think a fresher cheese would had more creaminess than taste.
(Recipe)

Soufflé au bleu d’Auvergne
[Bleu d’Auvergne soufflé]

I love soufflés because they’re light and tasty at the same time. Don’t be afraid to make them — it’s so easy. The only thing you have to keep in mind is: soufflés must be eaten straight away from the oven or they’ll just fall.
An easy way to make soufflés without having to be in the kitchen during the lunch is to prepare the batter up to an hour before you start eating and to pop the small filled soufflé tins in the oven when you get the tart out of the oven.
These soufflés are nice served with some bitter leaves like rockets and a vinaigrette made with a nutty oil (like walnut oil).

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Individual soufflés make for a highly rewarding treat!

Soufflé au bleu d’Auvergne

serves 4

200g bleu d’auvergne
4 eggs, separated
salt and pepper
50g butter
50g flour
150ml milk

The oven should be preheated to 200°C.
In a bowl, mash the cheese with the egg yolks and season to taste.
Melt the butter over low heat in a saucepan and add the flour. Mix well until all the flour is incorporated. Whisk in all of the cold milk at once and pour this mixture over the cheese-egg paste. Put back into the pan and bring to the boil over low heat. You should mix all the time to prevent the egg whites from cooking.
In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff and fold into the previous mixture.
Fill four small soufflé tins and bake for 15-20 minutes or until golden and well-risen. Eat straight from the oven.

Camembert aux fruits secs, aux noix et au miel
[Camembert with dried fruits, nuts and honey]

This is hardly a recipe. You should consider it as a reminder: camembert goes well with dried fruits and nuts which go well with runny honey.
For this ‘recipe’ you should choose a mild camembert: if it’s too strong it will be overpowering and you won’t get that soft ‘longueur en bouche’ (literally - length in mouth, which means great after taste).

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Yum, runny honey. I love the contrast between the tenderness of the camembert and the crunch of the nuts.

Camembert aux fruits secs, aux noix et au miel

serves 4

a camembert
almonds
raisins, golden sultanas…
dried apricots
and any other dried fruits or nuts: think dates, figs, walnuts!

Entremet mousseux au Manslois et fraises au vinaigre balsamique
[Manslois mousse with balsamic vinegar strawberries]

manslois.jpg

Manslois is a strange little cheese. It’s cow’s milk fresh cheese from Charentes, where it’s used to make a delicious cheese tart called ‘tourteau au fromage frais’. I could have taken the easy way and make this tart but I reckon it would have been a bit too heavy after that 100% cheese lunch, so I went for the cold mousse.
I think you might have troubles getting Manslois cheese. Anyway, you can replace it by any fresh cheese — goat cheese would be a good option.

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The mousse is served with balsamic vinegar strawberries. So refreshing!

Entremet mousseux au Manslois et fraises au vinaigre balsamique

serves 4

3 sheets of gelatine
250g Manslois cheese
250g fromage blanc (thick yogurt)
100g sugar
seeds from 2 vanilla pods
50ml milk

500g strawberries
50g sugar
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 minutes.
Beat the cheese with the fromage blanc. Add the sugar and vanilla seeds and mix well.
Bring the milk to the boil. Squeeze the gelatine leaves to get rid of any excess water and mix into the milk until dissolved. Add to the cheese mixture and mix well for 1 minute.
Fill four small ramequins with the mixture and refrigerate overnight.

For the balsamic vinegar strawberries
Rinse the strawberries and cut them into small pieces. Put into a large bowl and add the sugar and balsamic vinegar. Mix well and set aside for 2 hours.

Before the lunch
Unmould the mousses into small plates and arrange the strawberries on top. Serve.