Tuesday 29 April 2008
My favourite places: pâtisseries, boulangeries, chocolatiers and food shops around Paris
Okay, I know I live in France – and am French (see, this is how I answer two questions in une pierre deux coups) – but come on guys, France is not Paris.

There are other cities. And I was even gifted with the right to live in some of them. Ask me about Antibes, Cannes, Nice or Monaco; even Toulouse.
But Paris? I go there a couple of times a year, generally for no more than a few days spent doing the compulsory shopping, dining out and partying, with very little time left for pâtisserie-scouting. What about the time when I actually lived in Paris for ten whole weeks. Now you bring this, I must say, that back then, I was in a pâtisserie, not visiting pâtisseries, and that well, thank you for reminding me I didn’t have enough time to complete the pastry-tasting I had initially planned.

But because I love you and will do anything to make you happy, I’m going to share with you a few of my favourite places around Paris. Since I proclaim any good pâtisserie or food store a favourite; the list could probably narrow down to two or three hundreds spots; but here, I’ll make sure to keep it brief and delicious, and will only feature the places I find myself visiting on a regular basis.
If you’re looking for a absolute guide to Paris pâtisseries, I suggest you get yourself a copy of The pâtisseries of Paris – Jamie Cahill’s latest book, so beautiful you could read it anytime of the year, but which could become quite handy if you’re planning to visit Paris.
Before I tell you more about my hand-picked list, I’ll clarify a few points on books.
I mean. Books. And me. We have that extraordinary symbiotic type of relationships. We can’t live without one another. Only great books, that is. Given that I no longer buy books on a craze, but really look over new and old titles before hitting amazon; all the books I’ve bought clearly are excellent. Whether it is the foolproof recipe on page 622 (the more pages, the more to read!), or the use of that beautiful typeface, or even the great photography. Each and every of the books I own have that special something, which makes me love them.
However, when I receive books from publishing houses, I will only share with you those I refer to as terrific, those I would pay for. Failing that, you won’t hear about them, or at least not through foodbeam.
Please welcome warmly my eight favourite places around Paris. As you’ll notice most of them are in the first, second and sixth arrondissements. No wonder here. When I’m in Paris, I live right in the heart of the first arrondissement so, ahem, I tend to have a routine which consists in walking or velib’ing from my flat to the sixth – almost always through the pont neuf – for a latte or citron pressé at Café Flore; then cross the Seine again, landing at the Louvre carousel and later on, in the second arrondissement.
However, since I used to work in the fifteenth, I have my favourites over there as well, which include – as you might have guessed – Pierre Hermé.
Angelina
226 rue de Rivoli - first arrondissement
Okay, so this might not be a surprise, but Angelina is my favourite place for cold afternoons, when all I crave is good winter food; during those days, only a hot chocolat africain and a mont blanc will do.
They’re out of this world. Really.
I usually spend a good couple of hours there, sipping through the incredibly thick hot chocolate and reading the latest issue of Thuries magazine.

Pierre Hermé (closed on Mondays)
85 rue de Vaugirard - fifteenth arrondissement
Most of you know how fond I am of Pierre’s pastries. I do have favourites though. The collections I love the most are Mosaic – pistachio and cherry, and Infiniment Vanille – Mexican, Tahitian and Madagascar vanillas. Please make yourself happy and have a millefeuilles Mosaic or a tarte Infiniment Vanille or both.
Amongst the macarons, I must admit I’m partial to Mogador, Mosaic (again) and balsamic vinegar.
I do also advise you taste the cannelés and croissants – the best around town.

Des gâteaux et du pain
63 boulevard Pasteur - fifteenth arrondissement
This is where we – the pâtissiers at Pierre Hermé’s – used to get baguettes for our breakfast break. And trust me, good levain baguette it was. The crust is crisp and golden, while the crumb is uneven – with large air pocket – and slightly chewy.
Most definitely the best baguette I have ever had. The pastries are also fantastic looking and equally good.

G. Detou (closed on Sundays)
58 rue Tiquetonne - second arrondissement
This is where I go when I need hard-to-find ingredients. Liquid glucose, cocoa butter, pistachio paste… just to name a few.
I also recommend the cheap yet great vanilla beans, which are sold by fifty.
The staff is cheery and helpful, so do not hesitate to ask for help.

Stohrer
51 rue Montorgueil - second arrondissement
Being a one-minute-walk away from my flat, you’re likely to find me shopping at Stohrer – one of the oldest patisseries in Paris – on Sunday mornings.
Although all the pastries look refreshingly old-fashionned, I always end up buying a puit d’amour: a crisp puff pastry shell encloses a fragrant vanilla crème topped with a brittle caramel.

Sadaharu Aoki
35 rue Vaugirard - sixth arrondissement
Being the matcha green tea lover I am, I can’t help but drop by Sada’s pâtisserie, where I will only take two millefeuilles. One for instant gratification. One I’ll save for later – probably breakfast.

La grande épicerie (closed on Sundays)
38 rue de Sèvre - seventh arrondissement
My friends always tease me because I go grocery shopping at la Grande Epicerie which they see as one of the most expensive supermarkets around. Although, this statement is somewhat close to reality, I prefer to disagree claiming that Monoprix is much more expensive (ahem, right).
Don’t discuss, go there, buy Jean-Yves Bordier butter and spread it thickly onto a slice of baguette.

Patrick Roger (closed on Sundays and Mondays)
108 boulevard St Germain - sixth arrondissement
Call me superficial, but I could go to Patrick’s chocolaterie just for the perfect bondi-blue boxes. Quite evidently I have other reasons; like: chocolates.
Awarded Meilleur Ouvrier de France, Patrick creates simple yet delicious chocolats. I am known to always purchase the almonds, dipped in caramel and covered with a thin layer of dark chocolate. The oat ganache chocolate also holds a special place in my heart and I hope it will in yours too.
Now I’m curious… What are your favourites?







Tuesday 29 April 2008
Pierre Hermé of course ,
Les Thés Mariage Frères, rue des Gds Augustins , Paris 6e
Ze Kitchen Galerie , Rue des Gds Augustins Paris 6e
Bistrot les Papilles , Rue Gay Lussac
L’EPicerie du Bon Marché .
Débo said something sweet:Tuesday 29 April 2008
Pain de Sucre, 14 rue Rambuteau (Paris 3)
Arnaud Lahrer, rue Caulaincourt, Paris 18
And for cookbooks, my own shop of course: La Librairie gourmande, 90 rue Montmartre, Paris 2 ;-)
le cookie masqué said something sweet:Tuesday 29 April 2008
Jean-Paul Hévin ! ne me dit pas que tu n’as jamais goûté son macaron chocolat amer ? je ne parle évidemment pas de ses chocolats …
Heuuu… Tu me fais quoi si je te réponds que non? Mort au macaron au chocolat amer?
Bon je capitule, je ne suis jamais allée chez Jean-Paul Hévin. Je ne sais même pas où se trouve la boutique. Mais je compte bien remédier à ce drame en y trainant (ou en me faisant trainer) par une copine parisienne le week end du 8 mai.
Tuesday 29 April 2008
>Ask me about Antibes, Cannes, Nice or Monaco
Here’s the first official request! I just moved to the Côte d’Azur, and it would be lovely to read about your favorite places :)
Vanille said something sweet:Tuesday 29 April 2008
Exception Gourmande, 4 place du Marché Saint-Catherine, Paris IV, la nouvelle boutique de Philippe Conticini.
Nol said something sweet:Tuesday 29 April 2008
Bonjour,
Vida said something sweet:juste pour te remercier de mettre tes recettes en Français, je viens juste de le remarquer! Merci au nom de tous les feignants de la traduction!
Tuesday 29 April 2008
Well first I will run out and buy the book then when I am in Paris next I will call you to show me all these beautiful places so we can takes notes, compare and share!!
Vida x
Oh gosh. I wish we could. I’m in Revel right now though; not close to Paris!
Tuesday 29 April 2008
la pâtisserie viennoise, rue de l’école de médecine, paris 6ème (the best!!)
Alessandra said something sweet:Tuesday 29 April 2008
Hi Fanny! I really love your blog and “patisserie”. It would be nice, for me too, to read about your favourite places in Cote d’Azur. By the way, could you help me? Where can I buy, in Nice, some hard-to-find ingredients like matcha, black sesame seeds etc? Ciao & thank you :)
Antonio said something sweet:Wednesday 30 April 2008
Fanny, you make me want to pack my bags and rush to Paris right now!! My friend (who speaks French) and I are planning to grab our things and go for a week this summer (it’s in the planning stage now, but I hope it works out!)
Fabienne said something sweet:Wednesday 30 April 2008
Tu as oublié les macarons et les baguettes au levain de Gérard Mulot, rue de Seine à Paris 6è
Non non je n’ai pas oublié, mais j’ai choisi de partager ici uniquement les adresses que je fréquente régulièrement.
Par contre, je suis contente de savoir que Gérard Mulot est une bonne adresse et fait partie de tes préférées.
Wednesday 30 April 2008
Hi Fanny !
The particular itineraries you describe are exaclty mine, as I live rue de Clery, and shop rue Montorgueil !
a Puit d’Amour, mmmmm….., 1kg of pâte pralinée from G.Detou…..,a Mont-Blanc……..yeah, I hear you.
But as a very gourmande parisienne, I might add….(though I know your list was about the place YOU go to on regular bases, but still) :
. Le clafoutis aux cerises de Gerard Mulot, because its taste is unbelievable, because it’s not like a flan at all (i don’t care for flan), and it’s just the best thing ever, you can’t argue on that.
(can you…?)
. Pain de Sucre, rue Rambuteau. for a guimauve à la fleur d’oranger, un gros cube très humide et frais, de la guimauve comme on en trouve pas, and all the reste, the delicious verrines, fraise-bergamotte and so on….
Just the thought of he descriptions of their pastries on the counter is too much to deal with right now.
. Le chocolat chaud at Ladurée. I don’t remember the one at Angelina’s, but Ladurée’s is so intensely chocolat and thick and strong, like just meleted chocolate, and it’s served in the loveliest small silver theiere, the one I always want to get back home under my coat. I do.
. La Pâtisserie Viennoise, for the tarte cannelle-amandes-citron. It’s the exact right amount of spicy, sweet and bitter, mmmmm. And all the pavot tarts and cannelle stuff.
. And Regis, 89 rue de Passy dans le 16ème.
I never go there, it’s far, yes, but the Palmas !!!!
My great-aunt Anna would always get us Palmas when we were kids. They are gâteaux entièrement aux amandes un peu comme une fragipane, fondant in the heart but a bit croustillant autour, and the top is cmplètement saupoudré de sucre glace. It’s a great great moment.
Did I get carried away…..??
Tant pis !
Thanks for all the marvelous recipes and récits,
bonne continuation Fanny !!
Rebecca. That seriously was the best comment ever. Thank you! I wish I had had more time when I was in Paris to visit all those beautiful and delicious places you recommend.
I’ll try to get there next week end!
Thursday 1 May 2008
Hou la la moi aussi c’est la honte, je ne suis jamais allé chez Hévin !
J’ai jamais goûté les baguettes de des gâteaux et du pain, trop absorbée par les pâtisseries sans doute ! D’ailleurs, tu savais que la chef était une femme ? C’est assez rare pour le noter ! Il me semble qu’elle a bossé au plaza avec Michalak avant. C’est juste dommage que ce soit aussi loin de chez moi !
Sinon, j’adore aussi “Pain de sucre”, rue rambuteau parce qu’ils ont un éclair à la menthe dément et des guimauves au chocolat trop bonnes (entre autres bien sûr !). Mais avec aussi des trucs plus bizarres comme le macaron chèvre-angélique ou les guimauves au piment d’espelette !
Bon la prochaine fois que je suis à Paris, il faut qu’on répare notr faute avant qu’Alexia commence à nous jeté des ninja coojies.
Oui Claire a travaillé avec Michalak (pas mon favori lui pour le coup - très joli ses pâtisseries mais un peu tasteless) et avec Hermé aussi il me semble. Les baguettes sont à se damner.
Et pour Pain de Sucre j’adore, en plus pas d’excuse, j’habite aussi rue Rambuteau à Paris; mais c’est vrai que je n’y vais pas aussi souvent que je le devrais: il faut traverser Sébastopol et tout et tout!